Why old valves fail when you need them
Gate valves use a brass wedge that drops into the pipe on a threaded stem. Minerals from the water build up on the threads and around the wedge. When finally turned, the handle snaps, the stem strips or the wedge drops but no longer seals. Packing nuts around the stem also dry out and start to weep once disturbed.
Signs it is time to change it
- The wheel handle refuses to budge by hand, or turns without the water stopping.
- Drips or green crust around the stem nut.
- A valve so close to the floor or wall that you cannot get a hand on it.
- You are planning a renovation, water heater swap or new fixtures and want a reliable stop first.
How the replacement is done
The main valve sits upstream of almost everything, so the curb stop out by the street has to be closed first. We arrange that with the Region of Peel when required, empty the house piping, remove the seized valve and install a full-bore lever-handle ball valve, soldered on copper or joined with approved push or crimp fittings on plastic service lines. If the meter has a valve on the house side, we replace that one too. Bonding jumpers around the meter, where present, are put back in place.
Worth adding at the same time
If the incoming pressure is high, a pressure-reducing valve after the shut-off protects fixtures. Homes with a sprinkler or irrigation tie-in may need a backflow device. We will mention either if what we see calls for it; our page on water pressure problems goes into more detail.
Signs you need this job
- A water bill rising with no new use
- Ceiling stains below a bathroom
- Banging pipes when a tap closes
- Green crust on copper joints
On the job, in order
- Main valve off, lowest tap open to empty that run
- Trim past the damage until clean metal or PEX shows each side
- Join new copper or PEX with the right fittings
- Repressurise and watch the meter dial
Ready when you are. One call, a real plumber, an arrival window.
Call now(365) 517-6415