Common sump pump failures
- Stuck float: the float arm or ball catches on the pit wall or the power cord and never rises, so the pump does not start.
- Failed switch: the pump runs constantly or not at all because the switch contacts have worn out.
- Clogged intake: gravel, silt or debris blocks the screen and the pump hums without moving water.
- Failed check valve: water drains back into the pit, causing the pump to cycle repeatedly or slam when it stops.
- Burnt-out motor: often after years of overwork, or after running dry for long periods.
Each symptom points to a different part, so we diagnose before replacing anything.
Testing a pump with a bucket of water
Homeowners can do a simple check. Remove the pit lid, then slowly pour water in from a pail until the float lifts. The pump ought to start, lower the water and stop cleanly. Listen for grinding, rattling or a loud bang from the discharge line. If the pump hums but the water level does not drop, unplug it and call us. Do not reach into the pit while the pump is plugged in.
It is also worth checking that the pump cord is in a live outlet and that a GFCI has not tripped. That alone explains some no-start calls.
Repair or replace
A sticky float, a clogged screen or a noisy check valve are straightforward repairs. When the motor itself has failed, or the pump is old and has been running heavily for years, replacement usually makes more sense than repairing the motor. We explain the reasoning and give you the choice. If the pit itself is undersized or cracked, our sump pump installation page explains a fuller upgrade.
Whichever route you take, the new or repaired pump is tested with water in the pit before we leave, and you see it start and stop on its own.
Spring thaw readiness
In Brampton, March and April bring snowmelt and rain onto frozen ground, which is when sump pits fill fastest. Test the pump in late winter. Check that the outdoor discharge is not buried under a snowbank or frozen solid. Clear stored items away from the pit so the lid can come off quickly. Make sure the float has room to rise freely. If you have a battery backup, test the battery's age and charge.
The library's sump pump maintenance article covers this routine in more detail. Since low water pressure and sump trouble sometimes appear together in older homes, the guide to low water pressure causes may also be useful.
We repair sump pumps across Brampton, including Credit Valley. If your hot water tank shares the same corner of the basement and is showing its age, see water heater repair.
Signs you need this job
- Pump motor humming while the pit level never drops
- The float sticking against the liner
- Floor-drain puddles showing up after every downpour
- A discharge line frozen at the exit
On the job, in order
- Pull the plug on the old pump and bail the crock dry
- Swap the pump and check valve on new unions
- Seal the discharge through the wall
- Flood the crock again and see the float switch kick in
Straight answers
Why does my sump pump start when it hasn't rained?
High groundwater, a failed check valve, or water from another source such as a leak can all keep a pump running. We check each possibility.
Is a loud bang when the pump stops normal?
It usually means the check valve is slamming closed; a quieter valve design can often solve it.
How often is a sump pump test needed?
Test it at least every few months, and always before spring thaw and stormy seasons.
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